Thailand Naturetrek - part 3

DAYS 5-8 Chiang Mai and Doi Inthenon

DAY 4 Tuesday: We go north to Chiang Mai

The dossier says: “We leave Khao Yai after an early breakfast and drive back to Bangkok International Airport to catch a mid-morning domestic flight to the northern city of Chiang Mai. On arrival at this capital of the hill country we transfer to Doi Inthenon Resort Hotel where we will stay for four nights but before doing so we shall investigate some of the birding sites close to the city.

The hills of northern Thailand, which also extend across the national border into Burma, are rich in birdlife, many of the species spending the winter here from further north in Asia, augmenting the resident avifauna which has many affinities with the Himalayan region.

An excursion into the paddy fields and scattered bushes just outside Chiang Mai could provide a diverse selection of birds including Chinese Pond Heron, Black-winged Kite, Little Green Bee-eater, Palm Swift, Rufous-winged Bush-Lark, Wire-tailed Swallow, Richard's Pipit, Brown Shrike, Blandford's Bulbul, Pied Bushchat and Pegu Sparrow. Wintering Dusky Warblers are common in this habitat, often revealing their presence in roadside scrub by insistent sharp call notes.

Later we make our way to Doi Inthenon Highland Resort. If we have time we will birding at resort compound in the evening to look for Red-rumped Swallow, Crested Treeswift, Rufous Treepie, Chinese Francolin, Spotted & Asian Barred Owlet etc [we did not arrive in time to do this].”

DAY 4 - north

The party birding in Chang Mai near the military camp

Our bird list was: Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker, Lineated Barbet, Eurasian Hoopoe, Indian Roller, Little Green Bee-eater, Asian Koel, Himalayan Swiftlet, Asian Palm-Swift, Fork-tailed Swift, House Swift, Crested Treeswift, Rock Pigeon, Spotted Turtle-Dove, Common Moorhen, Common Sandpiper, Chinese Goshawk, Common Buzzard, Little Grebe, Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Yellow Bittern, Burmese Shrike, Ashy Woodswallow, Black Drongo, Common Iora, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Siberian Rubythroat, Common Stonechat, Pied Bushchat, Black-collared Starling, Common Myna, White-vented Myna, Barn Swallow, Wire-tailed Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Streak-eared Bulbul, Grey-breasted Prinia, Plain Prinia, Inornate Warbler, Indochinese Bushlark, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, White Wagtail, Grey Wagtail, Richard's Pipit, Olive-backed Pipit, Red Avadavat, White-rumped Munia, Scaly-breasted Munia.

51 species for the second (northern) part of today including 20 new species added during our first half day in the north - giving a grand total of 175 species so far.

DAYS 5 – 8 Wednesday-Friday: Doi Inthenon

The dossier tells us: “Doi Inthenon is the highest mountain in Thailand and rises to over 2,500 metres. We will stay at the nearby Highland Resort for four nights and fully utilise our time to explore the dry dipterocarp forests of the lower slopes and the evergreen tracts nearer the summit. Inthenon has a remarkable reputation as one of the best birdwatching locations in northern Thailand and a small patch of swamp near the radar station which crowns the summit, has produced many rare birds for visiting birdwatchers. Like Khao Yai, a surfaced road winds from the base of the mountain to the summit permitting easy access to the various levels of vegetation. Any tour member with experience of the Himalayas will find some familiar birds at the higher elevations of Doi Inthenon, species such as Ash-throated Leaf-Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Laughing-Thrush, Silver-eared Mesia, Chestnut-tailed Minla and Black-headed Sibia. Here too, we should find flocks of Eye-browed Thrushes foraging for berries, and perhaps other scarcer visitors from northern Asia such as Siberian Thrush or Red-flanked Bluetail. A peevish churring call may draw our attention to a curious little Slaty-bellied Tesia bouncing from branch to branch like an animated golf-ball, another bird also found in Himalayan evergreen forests. Green-tailed Sunbirds are common at this altitude, the male a stunningly beautiful bird with maroon mantle, crimson breast and iridescent blue-green head and tail.

As we explore the forested slopes of the mountain we will again be looking for mixed species feeding flocks which are likely to have different components to the bird waves encountered at the slightly lower elevations of Khao Yai. Striped Tit-Babbler, Striated Yuhina, White-bellied Yuhina and Grey-headed Flycatcher are four typical members of these flocks, whilst associated species may include Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, Grey-cheeked Nun-Babbler, Rufous-fronted Tree-Babbler, Red-billed Scimitar-Babbler and Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babbler. Elsewhere in the forest there are many other interesting birds with life styles which do not include habitually joining the feeding flocks, although all birds are opportunist feeders and some individuals may attach themselves to such a flock as it passes by. Some of the other forest residents include Greater Green-billed Malkoha, Red-headed Trogon, Blue-throated Barbet, Rosy Minivet, Scarlet Minivet, Blue-winged Leafbird, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Blue-winged Siva, Black-crested Bulbul, Black-capped Bulbul, Mountain Bulbul, Ashy Drongo,
Maroon Oriole, Grey Tree-Pie, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Golden-spectacled Warbler, Grey Bushchat, Little Pied Flycatcher, White-throated Fantail Flycatcher and Black-naped Monarch.

Wherever there are suitable clearings in the forest we are likely to find Olive-backed Pipits quietly searching for insects below the trees. These are spending the winter months in Thailand from northern breeding areas, as are the Yellow-browed Warblers which constantly call from the canopy, and the shy White's Thrushes which merge so readily into the background of dead leaves with their marvellously cryptic plumage. As at Khao Yai, Phylloscopus warblers abound in the forest and with over a dozen species possible, enthusiasts will find plenty of wingbars and supercillaries to sort through on frustratingly active little birds. Separating White-tailed from Blyth's Crowned is not the easiest of tasks and is made even harder by the hyper-active behaviour of these canopy dwellers!

Descending from the summit at 3,500 metres to the lower slopes of the mountain, we pass through forests inhabited by six or more species of bulbul, woodpeckers, barbets, warblers and a selection of flycatchers including Verditer, Yellow-bellied Fantail and Large Niltava. Other surprises might include a shrike-sized Collared Falconet, Brown-throated Tree-Creeper or perhaps a Chinese Francolin uttering his monotonous 'song' from a concealed perch. Slaty-backed Forktails add their grace and beauty to little streams bubbling through the trees and Black Eagles occasionally soar on broad wings over the canopy. Two other water-lovers that we should find along the tumbling streams are the Himalayan duo of White-capped and Plumbeous Redstarts.

The abundant birdlife of Doi Inthenon will keep us fully occupied during our stay and we will attempt to see as much as we can in the time available. As always in forest habitats, some birds can be frustratingly elusive whilst other unexpected species may suddenly appear but with so much to look for we are unlikely to be disappointed. Apart from the birds mentioned above other possibilities include Common Hawk-Cuckoo, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Rusty-cheeked and Yellow-billed Scimitar-Babblers, Spectacled Barwing, Chestnut-backed Sibia, Black- headed Shrike, Chestnut-flanked White-Eye, and Common Rosefinch. We are unlikely to find many mammals apart from squirrels but lovers of butterflies will find another profusion of insects to supplement the earlier observations at Khao Yai.”

DAY 5 Wednesday

Summit of Doi Inthenon; highest point in Thailand

Les looking towards the summit of Doi Inthenon and the Royal Thai Airforce radar installations

Doi Inthenon summit. Laughing thrushes! (EJP)


Mossy forest at summit of Doi Inthenon

Endemic Rhododendron sp. Doi Inthenon summit

A pale Praying Mantid (sp. unknown) - about 15 cm long

Typical mid montain track walked today

Large spider (sp. unknown)

Butterflys of unknown sp. (EJP)

Les beside a track signpost

Another signpost in the park

Park trailhead (EJP)

Our bird list was: Rufous-throated Partridge, Grey-capped Woodpecker, Golden-throated Barbet, Blue-throated Barbet, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Asian Koel, Green-billed Malkoha, Eurasian Woodcock, Oriental Honey-buzzard, Japanese Sparrowhawk, Burmese Shrike, Slender-billed Oriole, Grey-chinned Minivet, Short-billed Minivet, Scarlet Minivet, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Yellow-bellied Fantail, Bronzed Drongo, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, Asian Paradise-Flycatcher, Blue Whistling-Thrush, Dark-sided Thrush, Chestnut Thrush, Grey-sided Thrush, White-browed Shortwing, Little Pied Flycatcher, Large Niltava, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Orange-flanked Bush-Robin, Plumbeous Water-Redstart, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Yellow-browed Tit, Black-crested Bulbul, Flavescent Bulbul, Mountain Bulbul, Black Bulbul, Japanese White-eye, Slaty-bellied Tesia, Mountain Tailorbird, Ashy-throated Warbler, Inornate Warbler, Blyth's Leaf-Warbler, White-tailed Leaf-Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Pygmy Wren-Babbler, Golden Babbler, Silver-eared Mesia, Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babbler, Spectacled Barwing, Blue-winged Minla, Chestnut-tailed Minla, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, Rufous-backed Sibia, Black-headed Sibia, White-bellied Yuhina, Plain Flowerpecker, Gould's Sunbird, Green-tailed Sunbird, Black-throated Sunbird, Streaked Spiderhunter, Grey Wagtail, Common Rosefinch.

66 species today; 52 new for the trip. Total list now stands at 227.

DAY 6 Thursday

Our northern accommodation (EJP)

Exotic blumes in the garden (EJP)

View of the valley where we saw the Daurian Redstart

Sign at entrance to gardens where Daurian Redstart was to be seen

Waiting to see the male Daurian Redstart

Vegetable gardens - Daurian Redstart

Lunch today - Ed and Dale with Eric and Barbara


Male White Wagtail of the eastern palaearctic subsp. Motacilla alba leucopsis


Dhole-like dog!

Kamol sketching the male White-capped Water-Redstart

Barbara looking at theWhite-capped Water-Redstart

At the waterfall (EJP)

Waterfall where White-capped Water-Redstart seen

Vegetation in gorge with waterfall

Stream below the waterfall with Blue Whistling-Thrush

Our bird list was: Rufous-throated Partridge, Mountain Bamboo-Partridge, Great Barbet, Golden-throated Barbet, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Asian Koel, Greater Coucal, Ashy Wood-Pigeon, White-breasted Waterhen, Eurasian Woodcock, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Japanese Sparrowhawk, Common Buzzard, Collared Falconet, Chinese Pond-Heron, Grey-chinned Minivet, Yellow-bellied Fantail, White-throated Fantail, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, Blue Whistling-Thrush, Chestnut Thrush, Grey-sided Thrush, Eyebrowed Thrush, Slaty-backed Flycatcher, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, Little Pied Flycatcher, Verditer Flycatcher, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Daurian Redstart, White-capped Water-Redstart, Plumbeous Water-Redstart, Grey Bushchat, Yellow-browed Tit, Striated Bulbul, Black-crested Bulbul, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Flavescent Bulbul, Mountain Bulbul, White-headed Bulbul, Hill Prinia, Grey-breasted Prinia, Mountain Tailorbird, Buff-barred Warbler, Ashy-throated Warbler, White-tailed Leaf-Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Pygmy Wren-Babbler, Grey-throated Babbler, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, Black-headed Sibia, Gould's Sunbird, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, White Wagtail, Grey Wagtail, Olive-backed Pipit, Common Rosefinch


58 species today with 16 new giving a total trip list of 243.

DAY 7 Friday

Interesting roadside sign on forest track! (EJP)

Stream at lower altitude site on the way to the dipterocarp forests

Crossing the stream (EJP)

Crossing the stream on the way to the dry dipterocarp forest ridge

Eric ascending the ridge into the dry dipterocarp forest

View into the dry dipterocarp forest



Further views into the dipterocarp forests

Our bird list today was: Rufous-throated Partridge, Greater Flameback, Great Barbet, Lineated Barbet, Golden-throated Barbet, Coppersmith Barbet, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Banded Bay Cuckoo, Asian Emerald Cuckoo, Asian Koel, Grey-headed Parakeet, Himalayan Swiftlet, Mountain Imperial-Pigeon, Oriental Honey-buzzard, Collared Falconet, Chinese Pond-Heron, Silver-breasted Broadbill, Long-tailed Broadbill, Eurasian Jay, Rufous Treepie, Large-billed Crow, Maroon Oriole, Long-tailed Minivet, White-throated Fantail, Ashy Drongo, Bronzed Drongo, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Asian Paradise-Flycatcher, Blue Whistling-Thrush, Eyebrowed Thrush, White-gorgeted Flycatcher, Verditer Flycatcher, Large Niltava, Vivid Niltava, Oriental Magpie-Robin, White-rumped Shama, White-tailed Robin, Common Myna, Brown-throated Tree-Creeper, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Black-crested Bulbul, Flavescent Bulbul, Mountain Bulbul, Slaty-bellied Tesia, Mountain Tailorbird, Common Tailorbird, Blyth's Leaf-Warbler, White-tailed Leaf-Warbler, White-necked Laughingthrush, Rufous-fronted Babbler, Grey-throated Babbler, Silver-eared Mesia, White-browed Shrike-Babbler, Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babbler, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, Rufous-backed Sibia, Black-headed Sibia, White-bellied Yuhina, Black-throated Parrotbill, Purple Sunbird, Black-throated Sunbird, Grey Wagtail.

64 species today; 15 new bringing the trip total to 258.

DAY 8 Saturday

The dossier says: “We spend one final morning at Doi Inthenon, returning to the hotel for lunch after which we drive back to Chiang Mai. Depending on the time available there may be time for a little shopping or sightseeing before catching an early evening flight to Bangkok…”

Our bird list for today was as follows: Great Barbet, Golden-throated Barbet, Coppersmith Barbet, Red-headed Trogon, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Asian Emerald Cuckoo, Asian Koel, Brown-backed Needletail, Red Collared-Dove, Zebra Dove, Maroon Oriole, Short-billed Minivet, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, White-throated Fantail, Ashy Drongo, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, Blue Whistling-Thrush, Little Pied Flycatcher, Verditer Flycatcher, Large Niltava, Small Niltava, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Brown-throated Tree-Creeper, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Striated Bulbul, Black-crested Bulbul, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Flavescent Bulbul, Hill Prinia, Blyth's Leaf-Warbler, Grey-crowned Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Golden Babbler, Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babbler, Spectacled Barwing, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, Rufous-backed Sibia, Black-headed Sibia, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, Black-throated Sunbird, Streaked Spiderhunter.

46 species today with 4 new and trip total now at 262.