Thailand Naturetrek - part 2
DAYS 2-4 at Khao Yai
The Naturetrek dossier says: "The 542,000 acres of hills which comprise the reserve embrace dry deciduous areas on the lower slopes and damp evergreen forest at higher elevations, interspersed by patches of open grassland. Among the mammals found here are herds of Sambar Deer, Muntjac, Pig-tailed Macaque and noisy White-handed Gibbons which announce each dawn with a frenzy of hooting [we saw or heard all of these mammals]. Each evening millions of Wrinkle-lipped Bats emerge from their roosting caves to extend like a plume of smoke over the forest as they set off to begin feeding, and on our way back from a first afternoon in the park we will be able to witness this extraordinary phenomenon [we did not see this bat nor the caves].
A surfaced road ascends to the highest point of the reserve at over 1,300 metres and from this a network of trails provides access to the forest. Some of these are no more than short tracks, others can be explored for ten kilometres or more through pristine jungle, following the course of rushing streams which tumble over picturesque waterfalls as they wind along the contours of the hills. Blue Whistling Thrushes may be found along these streams whilst both Slaty-backed and White-crowned Forktails inhabit certain favoured stretches where forest vegetation forms a canopy over the water. The diversity of birds to be found in the park is impressive but like all forested areas, Khao Yai does not easily reveal all its secrets and a degree of patience is needed to find some of the more retiring inhabitants. Mixed species feeding flocks are a feature of tropical forests and an encounter with some of these is likely to introduce a number of new birds with each successive wave. The arrival of such a flock is often presaged by the manic chuckling of laughing-thrushes, of which three or four species occur, and Hair-crested or Racket-tailed Drongos swooping from tree to tree as they capture large insects disturbed by the flock. Soon the canopy is filled with dozens of constantly moving small birds all united in a common search for food. For several hectic minutes your binoculars move from one new bird to another, as Striped Tit-Babbler and White-bellied Yuhina are replaced by Red-headed Trogon and Verditer Flycatcher, then suddenly the flock has moved on and only a few stragglers remain. The components of each flock vary and sometimes they attract larger spectacular birds like the beautiful Long-tailed Broadbill or the shy Green Magpie. Elsewhere, among the leaf debris of the forest floor we may chance upon a Blue Pitta, a Forest Wagtail or perhaps a superb Scaly Thrush [not seen] quietly scratching at the litter. Looking for birds inside the forest is never easy but from the road we can scan over the tops of the trees or watch the forest edge and here we often experience our most memorable encounters. Indian Pied, Wreathed and Great Hornbills may choose to flap from one fruiting tree to another, Moustached Barbets contribute to the chorus of bird calls, and Mountain Imperial Pigeons cluster, plump and contented looking, in a favourite tree. Seven or eight species of bulbul invite identification, [Indian] Vernal Hanging Parrots hurtle overhead and tapping noises may draw our attention to one of several woodpecker species. Phylloscopus warblers are common in these forests, not just the more familiar Yellow-browed but a confusing mixture of individuals sporting wing bars and crown stripes which require careful watching to separate into species. Three or four species are likely and the subtle differences make identification a tricky process. Rather easier to identify are the wintering Radde's Warblers skulking in roadside vegetation, or the Thick-billed Warblers inhabiting a similar habitat near one of the reserve pools. This same area also witnesses an evening gathering of Chestnut-headed Bee-Eaters heading to a communal roost, whilst at dusk, harrier size Great-eared Nightjars emerge to glide over the forest.
Over 200 bird species have been recorded at Khao Yai, ensuring that even with the limited time at our disposal we are guaranteed a tremendous start to our Thailand holiday. Some of the residents are widely distributed throughout the reserve, others confined to particular elevations or habitats but among the birds we could hope to find are Red Jungle Fowl, Green-legged Tree-Partridge [not seen], Crested Serpent-Eagle, Thick-billed [Green] Pigeon, Green-billed Malkoha, Silver-breasted Broadbill [not seen], Banded Kingfisher, Indian Roller, [Asian] Fairy-bluebird, White-rumped Shama, Olive- backed Pipit, Dark-necked Tailorbird, and Buff-bellied Flowerpecker[not seen] to name just a few more of the possibilities.
There is however much more to Khao Yai than just the birdlife, stunning though it is. Although only a few hours from Bangkok the reserve represents some of the best remaining tracts of lowland forest in Thailand and is a haven for all forms of wildlife. The flora is impressive, butterfly enthusiasts will find scores of brightly coloured insects to delight them and herpetologists will not feel neglected as they search for the many reserve reptiles, which range from Flying Lizards and Geckos to various species of snakes.”
Painting by Kamol Komolphalin reproduced here, with permission. Depicted from the top and left to right are: male Scalet Minivet, Great Hornbill, Long-tailed Broadbill, female Scalet Minivet, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Red-headed Trogon, Moustached Barbet, Banded Kingfisher, Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo, Silver Pheasant and Blue Pitta.
DAY 2 Sunday - February 19
Map of the park
We set off today after an early breakfast and drive up to the top of the reserve to an area with a panoramic view across a wide valley (shown on the map above as scenic lokout). Here we are in place soon after dawn (along with many other bird tour groups in their minibuses and off-road vehicles!) and activity soon hots up. Gibbons are calling from nearby but we soon have a long list of birds heard and mostly seen. A large party of Hair-crested Drongo are noisy (we account for about 100 of them today) and we find a roosting Collared Owlet low in a roadside tree. More spectacular were two Green-billed Malkoha at close range shuffling about in the upper branches of the trees bellow a lookout. Also nearby was a splendid pair of Great Flameback (woodpeckers) working the trucks of some tall timber. They were also at close range near this lookout. We had several good views of three species of Hornbill - Oriental Pied Hornbill (6); Great Hornbill (6) and a few Wreathed Hornbill. Moustached Barbet were conspicuous (6) as were parties of Vernal Hanging Parrot (12+) dashing about through the rainforest canopy and we saw 7 Red-breasted Parakeet.
The Naturetrek dossier says: "The 542,000 acres of hills which comprise the reserve embrace dry deciduous areas on the lower slopes and damp evergreen forest at higher elevations, interspersed by patches of open grassland. Among the mammals found here are herds of Sambar Deer, Muntjac, Pig-tailed Macaque and noisy White-handed Gibbons which announce each dawn with a frenzy of hooting [we saw or heard all of these mammals]. Each evening millions of Wrinkle-lipped Bats emerge from their roosting caves to extend like a plume of smoke over the forest as they set off to begin feeding, and on our way back from a first afternoon in the park we will be able to witness this extraordinary phenomenon [we did not see this bat nor the caves].
A surfaced road ascends to the highest point of the reserve at over 1,300 metres and from this a network of trails provides access to the forest. Some of these are no more than short tracks, others can be explored for ten kilometres or more through pristine jungle, following the course of rushing streams which tumble over picturesque waterfalls as they wind along the contours of the hills. Blue Whistling Thrushes may be found along these streams whilst both Slaty-backed and White-crowned Forktails inhabit certain favoured stretches where forest vegetation forms a canopy over the water. The diversity of birds to be found in the park is impressive but like all forested areas, Khao Yai does not easily reveal all its secrets and a degree of patience is needed to find some of the more retiring inhabitants. Mixed species feeding flocks are a feature of tropical forests and an encounter with some of these is likely to introduce a number of new birds with each successive wave. The arrival of such a flock is often presaged by the manic chuckling of laughing-thrushes, of which three or four species occur, and Hair-crested or Racket-tailed Drongos swooping from tree to tree as they capture large insects disturbed by the flock. Soon the canopy is filled with dozens of constantly moving small birds all united in a common search for food. For several hectic minutes your binoculars move from one new bird to another, as Striped Tit-Babbler and White-bellied Yuhina are replaced by Red-headed Trogon and Verditer Flycatcher, then suddenly the flock has moved on and only a few stragglers remain. The components of each flock vary and sometimes they attract larger spectacular birds like the beautiful Long-tailed Broadbill or the shy Green Magpie. Elsewhere, among the leaf debris of the forest floor we may chance upon a Blue Pitta, a Forest Wagtail or perhaps a superb Scaly Thrush [not seen] quietly scratching at the litter. Looking for birds inside the forest is never easy but from the road we can scan over the tops of the trees or watch the forest edge and here we often experience our most memorable encounters. Indian Pied, Wreathed and Great Hornbills may choose to flap from one fruiting tree to another, Moustached Barbets contribute to the chorus of bird calls, and Mountain Imperial Pigeons cluster, plump and contented looking, in a favourite tree. Seven or eight species of bulbul invite identification, [Indian] Vernal Hanging Parrots hurtle overhead and tapping noises may draw our attention to one of several woodpecker species. Phylloscopus warblers are common in these forests, not just the more familiar Yellow-browed but a confusing mixture of individuals sporting wing bars and crown stripes which require careful watching to separate into species. Three or four species are likely and the subtle differences make identification a tricky process. Rather easier to identify are the wintering Radde's Warblers skulking in roadside vegetation, or the Thick-billed Warblers inhabiting a similar habitat near one of the reserve pools. This same area also witnesses an evening gathering of Chestnut-headed Bee-Eaters heading to a communal roost, whilst at dusk, harrier size Great-eared Nightjars emerge to glide over the forest.
Over 200 bird species have been recorded at Khao Yai, ensuring that even with the limited time at our disposal we are guaranteed a tremendous start to our Thailand holiday. Some of the residents are widely distributed throughout the reserve, others confined to particular elevations or habitats but among the birds we could hope to find are Red Jungle Fowl, Green-legged Tree-Partridge [not seen], Crested Serpent-Eagle, Thick-billed [Green] Pigeon, Green-billed Malkoha, Silver-breasted Broadbill [not seen], Banded Kingfisher, Indian Roller, [Asian] Fairy-bluebird, White-rumped Shama, Olive- backed Pipit, Dark-necked Tailorbird, and Buff-bellied Flowerpecker[not seen] to name just a few more of the possibilities.
There is however much more to Khao Yai than just the birdlife, stunning though it is. Although only a few hours from Bangkok the reserve represents some of the best remaining tracts of lowland forest in Thailand and is a haven for all forms of wildlife. The flora is impressive, butterfly enthusiasts will find scores of brightly coloured insects to delight them and herpetologists will not feel neglected as they search for the many reserve reptiles, which range from Flying Lizards and Geckos to various species of snakes.”
Painting by Kamol Komolphalin reproduced here, with permission. Depicted from the top and left to right are: male Scalet Minivet, Great Hornbill, Long-tailed Broadbill, female Scalet Minivet, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Red-headed Trogon, Moustached Barbet, Banded Kingfisher, Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo, Silver Pheasant and Blue Pitta.
DAY 2 Sunday - February 19
Map of the park
Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus at hilltop lookout