NAMIBIA 1998
Birds of the Namib Desert & Etosha Pan
Tour Leaders:
Neil Macleod PO Box 52, Karibib, Namibia (264) 64-550052
macleodaf@iwwn.com.na
Eric Reinhardt PO Box 2044, Swakopmund, Namibia (264) 64-42661 fax 64-42779
deserttrails@hotmail.com
Penny Scott PO Box 23579, Windhoek, Namibia 081 1274621
katititours@iwwn.com.na
IOC tour participants:
Elsie & Nick Collias
John Disney
Peter Fullagar
Betty Gilbert
Peggy & George Hunt
Edna & John Temple Lang
Susanne & Ebbehard Pröve
François Vuilleumier
Our route through Namibia in August 1998
A narrative of the field trip
[Note: The following text includes some information supplied before the trip by the tour operators. It has been altered in the light of what actually happened!]
• DAY 1. Wednesday 05 Aug 98
On arrival at Windhoek International Airport we were to be met by a Wilderness Safaris representative and then transferred by road to the Namib Naukluft Lodge for two nights. However, most participants arrived the day before and stayed in Windhoek overnight 4-5th August. We (JD & PJF) stayed at the Windhoek Country Club Resort off the western bypass. Because the departure from Windhoek was delayed by the late arrival of some participants we had the morning to spend in the CBD of Windhoek. JD bought a Bush Jacket and we had a look at the meteorite ‘sculpture’ and did some shopping before we finally met up with the whole party and set off for the Namib desert.
On the way into Windhoek from the airport on the 4th we might have expected to see our first Namibian endemic, Monteiro's Hornbill along the road side but we didn’t!
From Windhoek we were originally going to have time to explore the sparsely wooded hills and valleys surrounding the city where the rocky slopes should have yielded Short-toed Rock Thrush, Barred Warbler and Rockrunner. A visit to Avis dam was also intended where we should have seen Bradfield's and Palm Swifts, Rock Martin, Greater Striped and Pearl-breasted Swallow. Wetland birds are also abundant at this site and South African Shelduck, Cape Shoveler and Red-bellied Teal are usually present. In the grass and shrubland surrounding the dam Desert Cisticola, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Black-chested Prinia and a variety of seedeaters are usually seen. Unfortunately we did not have time to look at any of these sites and once we had gathered our party together in the early afternoon we set off on trunk route B1 not pausing until our first comfort and refuelling stop at Rehoboth, 89km south of the capital. Here we would leave the tarred roads and set off on a secondary road (C24) heading for Farm Nauchas (92km from Rehoboth) where we stopped for refreshments (a late lunch!) and saw some Persian fat-tailed Sheep (Karacul) that nevertheless looked remarkably like goats! Just before Nauchas we stopped to view several splendid Sociable Weaver nesting colonies in Camel Thorn Trees, Acacia eriolobia. At one of these Sociable Weaver colonies we luckily flushed out a Pygmy Falcon. From here we headed down the Spreetshoogte Pass joining C14 before heading towards Solitaire. At the Spreetshoogte Pass we might have expected Herero Chat and Cinnamon -breasted Warbler but neither was seen. On the plains below the pass we stopped to look at the desert vegetation which included succulents like Hoodia sp. and an interesting shrub Boscia foetida which is pollinated by flies attracted by its foul smell. We made a fuel stop in Solitaire (about 50km from Nauchas) before setting off on a minor road (36) to our lodge (approx. 40km).
The Namib Naukluft Lodge is situated 58 kilometres north from Sesriem and 120 kilometres north from Sossusvlei. Accommodation is in 12 comfortable double rooms and 2 single rooms, all with private facilities and verandahs from which to enjoy panoramic vistas. There is a braai area and a swimming pool.
• DAY 2. Thursday 06 Aug 98
Today was an excursion to Sossusvlei. We spent the whole day in this spectacular desert dune area.
Pale-winged Starlings and Cape Sparrows greeted us at dawn from the rocks behind the lodge. To the west of this lodge there are wonderful views across a wide plain dotted with kopjes. Dawn and sunset is magnificent. Rüppell’s Bustards come close in to the dining area window and can be seen over breakfast!
We set off south for Sesriem and on the way we look at a magnificent red flowered mistletoe infesting a Camel Thorn. At Sesriam we enter the Namib Naukluft National Park and shortly after leaving this small settlement we stop to look at the Sesriam Canyon a deeply incised watercourse cut into conglomerate. It was bone-dry and we climbed down to the floor between narrow walls. From this point the dry plains open out to present spectacular desert vistas and eventually we are forced to park two of our VW minibuses to continue using the remaining vehicle as a ‘shuttle’. It is the only one that is 4-wheel drive. Our final destination for today is Sossusvlei pan at the end of the now dry Tsauchab river. Here there are enormous sand dunes and some magnificent Camel Thorns. Under the shade of these trees we have lunch and gather a large flock of thirsty Cape Sparrows by putting out a bowl of water. The low sandhills at the base of the huge mobile dunes are here and there sparsely covered by a fiercely prickly plant, the Nara Melon, Acanthosicyos horridus! The pulp of the fruit of this melon can be eaten raw but usually it is baked with seeds and dried for future use. It is the main food of the Topnaar tribe descendants of the Nama. They have donkey carts and goats and live on Nara. After wandering about the dunes with almost no birds to find anywhere some of the party climb the nearest and highest of them and then we start back for the Lodge. Today we have several excellent views of Gemsbok and lots of sightings of Springbok. On the way out we stop to photograph the famous dune 45. We are lucky to rustle up a Dune Lark, Namibia’s only true endemic bird, at the first likely site we stop to look for it! François Vuilleumier attempts to use his newly acquired GPS to fix the site exactly! The only vegetation of note at the site was ‘Ostrich’ grass (looking like a Triodia). Overnight back at the Lodge.
• Day 3. Friday 07 Aug 98
We departed Namib Naukluft Lodge heading for the coastal town of Swakopmund, passing through the Namib Desert.
We expect to see a variety of raptors such as Martial Eagle, Tawny Eagle, Pale Chanting Goshawk and Rock Kestrel but we do not see any eagles all day! Other roadside birds should include Crimson-breasted Shrike, Pale-winged Starling, Marico Flycatcher and Red-crested Korhaan. We expect to stop regularly along the way to look for Rufous-eared Warbler, Karoo Robin and a number of lark species. We are not very lucky with most of these sought after species but see a good range of others. Large game is common on the farms here and we should see Gemsbok, Springbok, Mountain Zebra and Greater Kudu.
Heading off on the dirt road 36 we pass through Solitaire again (40km) but this time we all see the Rosy-faced Lovebirds in the few tall trees behind the store and Pied Crows in the yard and circling overhead. From Solitaire we take the secondary road C14 and head for Gaub Pass (73 km). From there we head towards the Kuiseb river and visit the general area in which Henno Martin, Hermann Korn and their dog ‘Otto’ evaded internment during Word War II. (Their classic tale of escape and survival is described in: Martin, Henno 1998 The Sheltering Desert, A D Donker: Jeppstown RSA, 324pp). The impressive folded geological formations of this area are metamorphic chloristic schist. A cave used by the fugitives was in sandstone perched atop this formation.
We stop regularly to look for species such as Ludwig's Bustard, Sociable Weaver, Pygmy Falcon and Burchell's Courser. The dry river courses and drainage lines of the desert are relatively well wooded and we could expect to see species such as Titbabbler, Dusky Sunbird, Rosy-faced Lovebird and Scaly-feathered Finch along the way. We fail with most of them although by now we have seen some on many times.
We have lunch within the impressive Kuiseb Canyon. Here there are Tamarisk Tamarix usneoides (leavers formerly use to salt meat), Ana Trees Faidherbia albida (seeds eaten by game and livestock) and Dollar Bush Zygophyllum stapffii; clumps of the latter colonizing the loose sands of the river course. In the dry riverbed we have splendid views of Red-billed Francolin, Dusky Sunbird, Melba Finch & Yellow Canary along with several other birds that are now becoming familiar to us.
Heading towards Walvis Bay (164 km) we take a turn north to the Ganab Picnic Ground and Campsite to look for more Dune Lark, and especially Gray’s Lark both of which have very restricted ranges. We see neither today despite long searches for both. However, we have the chance to examine a Namaqua Gerbil Desmodillus auricularis taken by a Rock Kestrel but then dropped as our minibus arrived! The Gerbil’s stomach was full of palish yellow crushed grass. On the way in to this site we have close views of a party of warthogs. We lunch here and then spend more time in fruitless searches for those dreaded desert larks.
Returning to the Walvis Bay road and heading on west we pass a splendid Quiver Tree Aloe dichtoma then turn off again to the north (about 50 km from Swakopmund) along Welwitschia Drive to see a special area made famous by the presence of these extraordinary looking plants. The Tumboa Welwitschia mirabilis (or bainesii) occurs only at a few localities in Namibia and grows only slowly surviving on minuscule quantities of moisture obtained from the morning fogs that occasionally blow in from the sea to the west. It has been said that they look like giant octopuses sunning themselves on the desert sands. Each plant has a deep taproot and produces only two strap-like leaves from gnarled woody bases. These bases are all of the stem of the plant that ever appears above ground. The leaves are often split into many separate ribbons, apparently by the action of the wind. It is a Gymnosperm and has small orange cones on short stalks that arise out of a groove in the hard woody base of the leaf. About the only other plant growing in the same area was Ink Bush Arthraerua leubnitziae with green stems that photosynthesize. The eastern limit of this plant corresponds with the fog belt.
We return to the Walvis Bay road and about 45 km from Swakopmund come to some viewing points overlooking a moonscape landform. Northwards is Rössing Mt, where the world’s largest open-cast uranium mine has been in operation since 1973. Here we see the spectacular way in which the lichens encrusting the rocks immediately respond to wetting by opening and turning green!
We should arrive in Walvis Bay in time to spend an hour or two birding the lagoon and the freshwater settling ponds of the local water purification works but we do not do this and instead follow the Swakopmund river stopping to look for birds at some remnant waterholes just out of town.
Huge numbers of birds occur in Walvis Bay and around the guano platforms to the north of the Swakopmund. We expect to see several thousand Greater & Lesser Flamingoes, Cape, Bank and Crowned Cormorants, African Black Oystercatcher and several species of tern, including Damara Terns. Over the next two days we see all of these except we cannot find any Damara Tern, which is not very surprising for the time of year.
We stay at the Schweizerhaus Hotel for two nights. The Schweizerhaus is a 2-star hotel centrally situated in Swakopmund, 2-3 minutes walk from the beach. Accommodation is in 24 rooms with en-suite facilities and telephone. Most rooms have their own balcony. Amenities include an a la carte restaurant, famous coffee shop (Café Anton), bar and garden with an aviary. Swakopmund is hometown for our guide Eric Reinhardt.
Highlights today were the Henno Martin refuge and Kuiseb river gorges, the Welwitschia plants, the Namaqua Gerbil, the Warthogs and consistently failing to find the larks we were after! We added 17 new species of birds to our trip list and 2 more mammals.
• DAY 4. Saturday 08 Aug 98
Walvis Bay has been a strategic port for more than 200 years. The Dutch held it for two years before the British laid claim in 1878. Formed by the ancient delta of the Kuiseb river it provides a natural deep water harbour although the river nowadays seldom flows. Bartolomeu Dias originally named the Bay Golfo de Santa Maria de Conceicoa in 1487. Later on this voyage he rounded the Cape of Good Hope for the first time in early 1488 reaching a little beyond Mosselbaai. Ten years after that Dias again rounded the Cape when he accompanied Vasco de Gama part of the way to India.
There are 40 km2 of coastal wetland in the Walvis Bay area making it one of the most important wetland sites in southern Africa. North of Walvis Bay on the B2 to Swakopmund there is a huge man-made wooden platform (17 000m2) from which 400-500 tones of guano are harvested each year. It is claimed that up to 90% of the southern African populations of Lesser and Greater Flamingoes winter in Walvis Bay lagoon (up to 23 000 Greater and 33 000 Lesser). They usually leave between January and April to breed at Etosha Pan or the Makgadikgadi pans in Botswana. It is also claimed that at least half and at times up to 95% of the world population of Chestnut-banded Plover may occur on Walvis Bay lagoon. Elephant once roamed the area. In 1793 Pieter Pienaar, an early pioneer, shot three elephant and twelve rhino along the estuary of the Swakop river. Early settlers all documented huge herds of big game in the Swakop valley but these had mostly gone by 1850.
Swakopmund was founded in 1892 to protect German colonial interests, particularly access to a port on the Atlantic coast and consequently in the distinctively Germanic town there are several attractive and majestic colonial buildings. A prominent feature is the stone pier or ‘mole’ jutting more than 300m out from the shore. It was constructed with great difficulty and never provided the intended shelter for a harbour because of the massive siltation resulting from the occasional flooding of the Swakop river. Boreholes in the bed of the Kuiseb river supply all freshwater for the town of Swakopmund.
Huge pans north of Swakopmund yield 180 000 – 200 000 tones of salt each year from a series of enormous evaporation ponds. Associated with these ponds there is further guano collection from vast platforms set up to encourage, in particular, several species of cormorant. A ‘Guano factory’ is located on the site.
The gravel plains surrounding Swakopmund receive most of their moisture from sea fogs and vegetation is very sparse. The extensive dunefields are mostly unstable with again have little vegetation cover. The road between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay runs to seaward of a long line of dunes which are in many places immense and unstable. The dry beds of the Kuiseb and Swakop rivers create liner oases by sustaining from the groundwater a fringing vegetation of sparse trees and some wetland species such as Reed Phragmities australis occur in remnant waterholes.
The area around Swakopmund is good for Gray's Lark and the coastal form of the Tractrac Chat and at least we catch up with the latter. The huge flocks of Palaearctic migrant waders resident on the Walvis Bay lagoon during the austral summer months often yield interesting birds such as Red-necked Phalarope, Terek Sandpiper, American Golden Plover and Great Sandplover. We have a last minute change of plan and therefore less time to search for interesting waders. We have an offer we can hardly refuse. An all day pelagic trip out of Walvis Bay.
An early start to the day sees us launching our boat off a beach and to start with we travel north out of the port towards several large freighters moored offshore. The early morning is calm and misty. We pass several structures on which large numbers of cormorant are roosting and breeding. These platforms (dating from 1939) are set up specially to harvest the guano deposited by seabirds. Up to 70000 cormorants roost here along with some White Pelican. An important species we are looking for is the South Atlantic Skua several of which we find along with splendid views of a good number of White-chinned Petrels. We also encounter Wilson’s Storm-petrels once we head further to seaward. The sea remains calm with only a slight swell. The mist turns to light drizzle at times and it remains overcast most of the day. We cruise round the lagoon spotting a good range of waders, gulls and terns but cannot find any Damara Tern. We head south along the coast to look at the Cape Fur Seal colony where we find a well known vagrant European Oystercatcher, a lone individual seen now by most birdwatchers to this area. There are 10000 seals in this colony. The water is green from dead algae, other plankton and high concentrations of SO2. We have excellent views of some Heaviside's (or Benguela) Dolphin alongside our vessel and spot a lone Black-backed Jackal on the beach near the seals. On return to the port we take a drive along the shoreline of the Bay and visit some pools nearby that are favourite sites for birdwatching. Here we see several species of waterbirds including a splendid male Maccoa Duck. Overnight again at the Schweizerhaus.
Highlights today were the South Atlantic Skua, White-chinned Petrel, Heaviside’s Dolphin and the Cape Fur Seal colony. We added 50 new birds to our list today and 5 new mammals.
• DAY 5. Sunday 09 Aug 98
Today we head north-east towards Omaruru in the Erongo Mountains via the Spitzkoppe. Outside the hotel, first thing, I find a Cockatiel calling persistently from one of the avenue of tall Norfolk Island pines. A bit out of place and presumably escaped from a nearby bird park or aviary,
On leaving Swakopmund we visit the famous saltworks and see the guano factory. The turn-off to this area is about 6 km north of the town. Waterbirds abound at this site but we have nowhere near enough time to do it justice and the early morning light was again dull. We then try for Gray’s Lark at a ‘guaranteed’ site just north of Swakopmund but we are again unsuccessful!
Once we get onto the main road (returning to a sealed trunk route, B2) we speed along until we double back at 124 km taking the dirt road heading west to Henties Bay and about 1 km from this junction we again turn north and about 29 km further long, after passing the little village of Uis, we approach the impressive rocky hills of Spitzkoppe where we stop for lunch. We rescue a confused chameleon from the roadside; otherwise it would likely be tormented by kids from the nearby village. At Spitzkoppe we have our best chance of finding Herero Chat, Namibia's best-known near endemic. On the plains surrounding these hills we expect to see Ruppell's Korhaan, Long-billed Lark, Chat Flycatcher and Karoo Chat. The Black Eagle, Augur Buzzard and Lanner Falcon occur in the hills, as do Rosy-faced Lovebird, White-throated Seed-eater and White-tailed Shrike but only the last of these was seen. We inspect some bushman cave paintings.
From Spitzkoppe we had to belt along to catch up on time lost earlier (mostly time wasted in trying for Gray’s Lark!). Once back on the sealed road (B2) we passed through Usakos heading on to Karibib (hometown for Neil Macloed) where we turn north on a sealed road (C33) heading to the Erongo Mountains and the settlement of Omaruru, one of Namibia's top birding spots. A total of 114 km from the Henties Bay junction and more than 300 km for the day.
The low granite domes surrounding the town are excellent habitat for Hartlaub's Francolin, Rockrunner, Short-toed Rock Thrush and Freckled Nightjar. Along the Omaruru river the dense Acacia woodland harbours several species of woodpecker, including Bearded and Bennett's, African Scops Owl, Burnt-necked and Yellow-bellied Eremomela and Ruppell's Parrot. Bat Hawk is found here regularly, and with luck, we might see one around sunset. We overnight at the Hotel Staebe, just outside the town centre of Omaruru which is situated midway between Swakopmund and the Etosha National Park,. Accommodation at the Hotel Staebe is in 23 rooms with en-suite facilities and ceiling fans, with a further 5 rooms in the annex to the Hotel. Amenities include a television lounge, dining room, bar and swimming pool. The bar has signs that birders have used this watering hole before us!
The rock paintings at Paul's Cave and the dinosaur footprints near Kalkveld are a couple of the places to visit in this area but we do not go to see either of them.
Highlights today were the masses of cormorants on the platforms at the saltworks and offshore nearby, together with a range of other waterbirds seen at the saltworks. At last Montiero’s Hornbill was seen but the odd thing today was the large discrepancy between the birds seen by different members of the group. However, we all failed to locate any Herero Chat at the spectacular Spitzkoppe normally considered a guaranteed site! Also today no mammals were listed which seems unlikely. We added 27 new birds to our list today and no mammals.
• DAY 6. Monday 10 Aug 98
Leaving Omaruru we now aim for the Etosha National Park. First thing, however, we head out of town to find Rockrunners and Hartlaub's Francolin. Both are located very successfully using appropriate call-up tracks from CDs! Then follows a lot of driving all day to get near to Etosha. We continue north from Omaruru on C33 through Otiwarongo then north on C38 to Outjo and on to our destination for tonight, In all we travel about 276 km, not counting the early morning diversion to find the Rockrunners.
Our overnight stop is at Toshari Inn which is conveniently situated for visitors just outside the main western entry to Etosha National Park. In the evening we see our first Rüppell's Parrots. The gardens and the excellent dry scrub surrounding this lodge are fortunately cris-crossed with handy pathways adding much convenience to an area that is excellent for birds. We relax!
Toshari Inn is 26 km south of the Anderson Gate into Etosha and 70 kilometres north of Outjo. The lodge offers accommodation for a maximum of 36 guests in 16 rooms with en-suite facilities. Other amenities include a dining room, lounge, bar, swimming pool, curio shop, lapa and braai facilities.
Highlights today were undoubtedly the wonderful views we had of the Rockrunners, Hartlaub’s Francolins, a couple of species of woodpecker and the Rüppell's Parrots. Our day’s list was otherwise remarkably short. It seems that too much time was spent travelling in the minibuses. Of the mammals listed, Chacma Baboons were heard calling loudly from nearby during our search for the Rockrunners and some of the antelope were spotted near to the lodge at sundown. We added 8 new species to our bird list and 5 new mammals.
• DAY 7. Tuesday 11 Aug 98
Okaukuejo, Etosha’s administrative centre, is the most westerly of the public rest camps and, for instant game-viewing, the most rewarding. It’s superb waterhole, which is illuminated at night, attracts all manner of wildlife, including Lion and Elephant, Black Rhino, and Spotted and Brown Hyena. The night watch is a magical experience. Rising high above the camp is its water tower (built in 1963), from the top of which there are fine views of the plains and the hills beyond. The camp has an information centre – under normal circumstances there are on view displays illustrating the nature of and life within Etosha, however, a recent fire had destroyed, amongst other facilities, the restaurant and put paid to our viewing most exhibits.
Some early morning birding included observing the antics of a group of Pearl-spotted Owls near the lodge. They were so easily called up by imitation of their unmistakable rising then descending call. Quite fascinating! After breakfast we drive into the park heading for Okaukuejo, with plenty of game viewing opportunities en-route. The grassy plains north of Okaukuejo camp are the best areas in the park to see Pink-billed Lark, Double-banded Courser, Northern Black (White-quilled Korhaan) and Spike-heeled Lark. Raptors are abundant, and we should see Martial Eagle, Secretary Bird, Bateleur, Tawny Eagle and Greater Kestrel. We spend the early part of the day cruising the road system and waterholes to the east and south of Okaukuejo. Etosha pan is dry and water is very restricted. We concentrate mostly on game but see lots of birds. We visit Gemsbok vlakte (=plain), an artificial waterhole with solar panels to power some pumps supplying a flow of water; Much of this flat area is sparse Mopane woodland that is heavily grazed. We take a late afternoon game drive to Okondeka waterhole 18 km north of the campsite. Ground squirrels give us close up views. We return before dusk. We stay overnight at Okaukeujo Rest Camp. The evening is absorbed by watching at the Okaukuejo waterhole. Visits continue after sundowners and dinner until well into the night to look at the nocturnal species visible under the floodlights. We watch African Elephant and after dark some Black Rhinoceros. At dusk a spectacular arrival of thousands of sandgrouse (of two species) was just what we wanted. A visit just before dawn saw some of the sandgrouse return briefly. Birding in this campsite is highly rewarding with plenty of species to view at close quarters.
Highlights today must include several species of mammals, a range of raptors, more bustards, the Double-banded Courser and the flocks of sandgrouse drinking at the waterhole at dusk. Excellent views of Bat-eared Fox, African Elephants, Black [Browse] Rhino and Giraffe were memorable. The comical antics of the group of Pearl-spotted Owls at our overnight lodge. We saw a lot of different larks today. And our first Crimson-breasted Shrikes - wow what a bird! We added 11 new birds to our trip list and 6 new mammals.
• DAY 8. Wednesday 12 Aug 98
Today really started in the night because most of us were up at some time or other (mostly several times!) to check out the floodlit waterhole. Birdwatching in the campsite was very good in the early morning. We had breakfast in the open and then set off for a whole day of slowly driving east across the width of the park (more than 130 km depending on the number of diversions) eventually arriving at Mokuti Lodge just outside the park boundary at its eastern extremity.
Etosha is famous for its large game populations and during our stay we can expect to see Lion, Elephant, Burchell's Zebra, Red Hartebeest, Blue Wildebeest, Springbok, Gemsbok, Giraffe, Greater Kudu and several smaller antelope. Among the rarer species regularly seen are Black Rhino (specially at waterholes at night), Cheetah and Black-faced Impala, a subspecies only found in Namibia. We see them all! Our traverse through the Park is taken at a leisurely pace and there are many excellent photographic opportunities.
First, we check out Nebrownii bore hole 8 km east of Okaukuejo, then we go to Kapupuhedi waterhole at about 12 km. This one is fed from the artesian system and is in a calcrete basin. We note that Water Acacia Acacia nebrownii, a spindly plant with long spines, is in flower. Next we call in at Salvadora waterhole, which has a good range of antelope (dominantly Springbok) and Burchell’s Zebra easily viewed from a calcrete ridge alongside. We head on to Rietfontein waterhole and note that reed beds here have been partly destroyed of late by the elephant. It is about 1100hrs and a party of Helmeted Guineafowl moves in to drink, spending about 15 minutes at the waters edge. We visit Halali campsite, claimed to be the best site to see Violet Woodhoopoe, Bare-cheeked Babbler and Carp's Black Tit. We see the babbler! This is our lunch stop. We also admire a splendid African Scops Owl roosting in a Mopane Colophospermum mopane. It was shown to us by the ground staff along with a nearby roosting White-faced Owl. There were several Fork-tailed Drongo and Ground-scraper Thrush and we all had first rate views of an adult Little Banded Goshawk. In the ‘dry’ the plentiful birdlife at these park campsites is obviously attracted by the availability of water and the well tended green lawns. The first waterhole we visited after lunch was Goas with sweet water in two pools filled from a spring. Soon after we came up close to some Burchell’s Zebra sporting their distinctive brown ‘shadowed’ stripes between the prominent black ones. A small herd of African Elephant was then watched browsing some thorn bush. Later we came onto a group of 9 elephant including several that were very young. Obviously a small herd of females with their offspring. They crossed our path and headed out onto the plains. They probably went to drink at a soak. Remarkable the way they quickly disappear from view. The Etosha elephant are said to be 0.5-1.0 m taller than those of other populations but have tusks that are usually smaller and easily broken off. We have seen some individuals with tusks broken off and others with short tusks. A small group of lion was spotted but they were almost invisible sheltering in the long grass amongst the thorn bushes. How easy to stumble onto them accidentally if you were to ventures incautiously into this bush. Of course, it is strictly forbidden for visitors to leave the vehicle when travelling through the park. On another occasion we came very close to a female Red Hartebeest with two young sheltering in the shade of some trees. About 5 km west of Koinachas waterhole (close to Fort Namutoni) the soils are grey which is best seen by looking at the numerous termite mound in the area. Near this waterhole we watch a small group of Brindled Gnu (Wildebeest) again sheltering from the sun in the long shadows of some trees. Along the way we have seen several other species of antelope, often up very close; Greater Kudu, Steenbok, [Damara] Kirk's Dik-dik, plenty of Springbok and the local subspecies of Impala, the [Black-faced] Impala.
In the east around Fort Namutoni, the open grasslands are home to Namibia's isolated population of Blue Crane, Temminck's Courser, Grey-backed Finch Lark and Clapper Lark. The elusive Black-faced Babbler occurs in dense Terminalia woodlands in this area. We catch up with none of them!
Fort Namutoni is an unusual and, in the game-park context, unique place. Its focus is a romantic, palm-girded, Beau Geste-type fort built by the German military colonists in the first years of the century. In the early days its commander, First Lieutenant Adolf Fischer (who became a renowned conservationist) and its garrison acted as warden and rangers respectively of three large nature reserves, among them one around Etosha Pan that was proclaimed in 1907. The fort was occupied by South African forces after their defeat. It then welcomed its first tourists, and today visitors are still lodged in the same building. The rooms are ordinary enough but the setting is splendid. Shades of the military past are all around, the whitewashed battlements served a very real purpose not so very long ago: bugles call and flags are raised and lowered at each end of the day; and there is a little museum in the lookout tower. An adjacent complex houses a restaurant and a fully stocked shop, not to mention the good German-style beer that goes down as a treat after a long spell on the dusty plains.
Floodlit waterholes at all three camps provide wonderful game viewing at night as well as providing opportunities to see nightjar and owls. We experienced this last night at Okaukuejo and again this evening delay leaving the park to be at some waterholes near Namutoni for as long as possible. We go to Klien Namutoni waterhole which is well known for Giraffe and sure enough we see several coming in to drink at dusk. We only just get out of the park before the curfew which would have been a serious ‘black mark’ for our guides if we had failed!
We overnight at Mokuti Lodge. The 4 star Mokuti Lodge is situated close to the Van Lindequist gate of Etosha National Park, 11 kilometres east of Fort Namutoni. All accommodation is under cool thatch with private bathrooms, radio, telephone and air-conditioning. Mokuti itself is situated on 4000 hectares of game park and its gardens include a large swimming pool and pool bar. Fine dining can be enjoyed in 2 restaurants or under a clear African sky around a fire in the boma.
Highlights today include the Cape Shelduck and again a good range of raptors with the spectacular close-up views of a Little Banded Goshawk or Shikra, Also memorable from today were the three species of owl including wonderful views of a roosting White-faced Owl and the diminutive African Scops-owl. What a tiny owl! Other specialities were Bare-cheeked Babbler, Ground-scraper Thrush, and good views of Pririt Batis, Three-streaked Tchagra and gangs of White Helmetshrike along with a fine selection of different species of weavers and sparrows. The bird list was long today with most of the party seeing everything. Mammals continued to attract our main attention and we had excellent encounters with several species of antelope. We saw a pride or two of African Lion and followed a family party of African Elephant at close range before they stomped out of the scrub onto the open plains. The Bontebok seen in the evening were in the grounds of the Mokuti Lodge where they could be seen outside our accommodation and were likely to be met, after dark, face-to-face as they grazed on the lawns between the pathways to the ‘chalets’. These Bontebok are far from there native range here in northern Namibia! We added 22 new birds to our list today and 6 new mammals.
• DAY 9. Thursday 13 Aug 98
We depart Makuti Lodge and return into the park to look again at the waterhole visited last night then set off south for Tsumeb (99 km from Namutoni) on the sealed highway B1. We collect a stunned Crimson-breasted Shrike from the roadside; clearly a road casualty. We take it with us but it does not recover and dies overnight. We stop to look at a deep pool (Lake Oshikoto) on the roadside about 18 km north of Tsumeb - a well known birding spot. The main pool is a large, almost circular, sink-hole with shear sides and a water depth said to be as much as 50 m. It has its own species of Tilapia fish only found in the next door lake and introduced to this one. We find some extraordinary species here because of the permanent water and the groves of mature trees that surrounding it, including figs. Also, there are derelict remains of a pump-station built in 1907 that once delivered water to nearby Tsumeb. In particular, we saw Green-backed Heron, Emerald-spotted Dove, Green Pigeon, Little Swift, Yellow-fronted Tinker Barbet, Red-breasted Swallow and Puffback at this site.
Continuing along B1 we now head to Otavi, 65 km from Tsumeb and then on to Otjiwarongo, a further 118 km. At about 33 km from Tsumeb we spot a young Martial Eagle (all white underparts) atop a telegraph pole sitting on its prey, a guineafowl. It takes off carrying its prey shortly after we stop to look at it but stays long enough for some of the party to have a chance of capturing the episode on film! To the east of us at this point is the Waterberg Plateau Park; situated about 250 km south of Etosha. This table-top mountain plateau comprises a sandy plain flanked by 100 m high cliffs and scree slopes. The Waterberg is home to the last remaining population of Cape Vulture in Namibia, which breed on the northern side of the plateau. Heading south from Otjiwarongo still on B1 we turn off at about 40 km to our destination for today, Okonjima Guest Farm. In all we have travelled about 350 km today.
Okonjima lies in the Omboroko Mountains, a continuation of the Waterberg Plateau, 72 kilometres south-west of Otjiwarongo. This area of deciduous woodlands is known as a birdwatchers paradise with over 200 species, including rare endemics such as Monteiro’s Hornbill, Hartlaub’s Francolin and Rockrunner. Numerous walking trails wind in and around the valley. The owners of Okonjima, the Hanssen family, have recently formed the Africat Foundation to raise funds in support of their efforts to save Namibia’s Cheetah and Leopard from extinction. This on-site project offers the visitor the chance to learn about these great cats as well as superb photographic opportunities. Accommodation consists of 10 luxury double rooms with en-suite facilities, with the main dining area being situated under thatch and overlooking beautiful gardens. Amenities include a swimming pool, curio shop and a bird hide.
We stay at Okonjima Guest Farm for two nights giving us time to relax from the intensive driving of the past few days. There are plenty of game viewing opportunities including a night-time viewing of Leopards.
Following afternoon tea (at 4 p.m.), during which we were accompanied by 3 Cheetah chomping into chunks of meat on the lawns in from of us, we set off for an explanation of how this game farm works and, to emphasis why it is rather different from most game farms, we were told about the Africat Foundation. The foundation was set up by the Hansen family because of their concern for the future of larger cats in Namibia. Essentially their objective is to reconcile modern farming practices in Namibia with a continued existence for these large predators, in particular Cheetah and Leopard, but especially leopard. They run a rescue operation to remove unwanted animals if they are see as threatening to livestock on farms but more importantly they are driven by a notion that they can alter the behaviour of leopard by a sort of aversion therapy (to cattle bells) to be achieved through a strict training program while temporarily holding such individuals in ‘free-range’ captivity. Putting this across to a bunch of overly sceptical biologists was a bit difficult and question time got a little heated. The outcome was that for some of our party an extreme scepticism took over such that for them any further interest in what was being done on this game was for all intents and purposes completely lost!
After this exposé on the workings of the Africat Foundation and with dusk approaching fast we were led to a hide to await the arrival of one of these Leopards. The animals were brought in by baiting. Total silence ruled but the reward was worth it because we had excellent close up views of an old male leopard coming to the meat.
After dinner there was a night-time excursion to view Porcupines from the bird hide. We watched them until well after midnight. An African Lion roared intermittently for the rest of the night from close by our rooms. PJF vowed to sound-record him the next night but the lion neither came as close nor called so persistently again!
Highlights today include the Martial Eagle, the suite of oddities found at Lake Oshikoto, the easy birdwatching in the luxuriant gardens of Okonjima Guest Farm, seeing a leopard at dusk, watching the antics of the Porcupines after dark and the lion roaring so close that PJF was too hesitant to go outside to record him!. We add 12 new birds to our list today and 5 new mammals.
• 10. Friday 14 Aug 98
Our last full day together. First thing in the morning we go into a large enclosure (more than a square mile) to view a small pride of lions one male of which we had heard overnight. For sure we certainly had a close encounter! Three lions were brought up to the side of the Landrover, and they came so close that PJF was brushed across the face by the tail of one female!
Guided by Rosalea Hanssen we spent some time with a bushman (Kavango) who showing us some of the traditional Kalahari Bushman craft and the equipment used by these people for survival in the desert. We saw how cord was made from Sansevera rubbing ash into it to make it bitter so as to prevent animals biting through it. He showed us the construction of a ‘falling log trap’ for animals, a bird snare which is preferably placed where the captive, baited in with fruit, can fly into a tree and stay alive. Also demonstrated was the art of making fire. A softwood base (Morula sp. Should this be Moringa ovalifolia – Ghost Tree?) with holes is held over tinder and a hardwood drill is spun with the hands in one of the holes. Once the tinder smoulders it is blown to flames.
Otherwise today we relaxed and generally bird watched locally and in particular within the magnificent garden at the Guest Farm. The numerous butterflies in the herb garden, particularly on lavender, attracted our attention. Most were Pieridae of one sort or another; we noted Sulphur Orange Tips, Colotis eucharis and African Marbled or Veined White Belenois gidica but there were several others we could not identify. Late in the afternoon we drove to another large paddock to see Cheetah close up. Again very confronting but not terrifying as with the Lion! We then headed for the hill to the north of the lodge where we had sundowners on the cliff-tops overlooking vast plains to the north of the property!
Highlights today were the encounters with Lion and Cheetah, the wonderful butterflies in the garden, Scimitar-billed Woodhoopoes in the garden and adding the Ashy tit and Violet-eared waxbill to our bird list. We also profited from being shown some of the traditional ways of a desert bushman. We added 2 new birds to our trip list but no new mammals.
• 11. Saturday 15 Aug 98
We have a leisurely start to the day, eventually leaving Okonjima, and heading south down trunk rout B1 through Okahandja to Windhoek International Airport (about 220 km). We arrive in good time for some to check in for their onward flight to Durban RSA. We added 2 more birds to our list today bringing it up to a final total of 207 but we added no new mammals so our mammal tally ended at a total of 37 species seen.
We (JD and PJF) return to the Windhoek Country Club Resort for another overnight stay and travel to Durban on an early flight the next morning. This time we see several Ruppell's Korhaan along the roadside on the way to the airport!
Of the real specialities we might have expected to see we missed out on Gray’s Lark, Damara Tern, Bat Hawk, Herero Chat, Rufous-eared Warbler, Violet Woodhoopoe, and Gabar Goshawk. However, we did see representatives of no fewer than 60 of the 78 families of birds known from Namibia, 57 of the 79 southern African endemic or near endemic birds occurring in Namibia and 5 of the 8 endemics or near endemics special to Namibia.
The Daily Log of Birds and Mammals seen
(Uppercase indicates New for the list)
• Day 1 (5th August)
OSTRICH - SHORT-TOED EAGLE - AUGUR BUZZARD - PALE CHANTING GOSHAWK - ROCK (COMMON) KESTREL - PYGMY FALCON - HELMETED GUINEAFOWL - LUDWIG'S BUSTARD - RUPPELL'S KORHAAN - WHITE-QUILLED KORHAAN - NAMAQUA SANDGROUSE - FERAL PIGEON - CAPE TURTLE DOVE - LILAC-BREASTED ROLLER - AFRICAN HOOPOE* - RED-BILLED HORNBILL - YELLOW-BILLED HORNBILL - LONG-BILLED LARK - MOUNTAIN CHAT - FAMILIAR CHAT - KAROO CHAT - ANTEATER CHAT - TITBABBLER - CAPE WAGTAIL - FISCAL SHRIKE - BOKMAKIERIE - BURCHELL'S GLOSSY STARLING - PALE-WINGED STARLING - WHITE-BELLIED SUNBIRD - DUSKY SUNBIRD - SOCIABLE WEAVER - GREAT SPARROW - CAPE SPARROW & BLACK-THROATED CANARY.
Others in the party saw: GREATER KESTREL - ROSY-FACED LOVEBIRD - GREY HORNBILL - FORK-TAILED DRONGO - RED-EYED BULBUL - CRIMSON-BREASTED SHRIKE & CAPE GLOSSY STARLING.
Mammals seen today: - SOUTH AFRICAN GROUND SQUIRREL - DASSIRAT - BLACK-BACKED JACKAL - CAPE ROCK HYRAX - SPRINGBOK & SLENDER MONGOOSE.
• Day 2 (6th August)
Ostrich - LAPPET-FACED VULTURE - Augur Buzzard - Pale Chanting Goshawk - Ruppell's Korhaan - ROCK PIGEON - Cape Turtle Dove - ACACIA PIED BARBET - DUNE LARK - CAPE ROOK - PIED CROW - CAPE PENDULINE TIT - Red-eyed Bulbul - Mountain Chat - Anteater Chat - CHAT FLYCATCHER - Burchell's Glossy Starling - Pale-winged Starling - White-bellied Sunbird - Dusky Sunbird - Sociable Weaver - Cape Sparrow & SCALY-FEATHERED FINCH.
Others in the party saw: LANNER FALCON - RED-NECKED FALCON - Ludwig's Bustard - LAUGHING DOVE - Long-billed Lark - ROCK MARTIN - Fork-tailed Drongo - Titbabbler & YELLOW CANARY.
Mammals seen today: FOUR-STRIPED GRASS-MOUSE - Black-backed Jackal - Springbok & GEMSBOK.
• Day 3 (7th August)
Ostrich - WHITE PELICAN - CAPE CORMORANT - LITTLE EGRET - GREATER FLAMINGO - CAPE TEAL - BLACK-SHOULDERED KITE - Short-toed Eagle - Rock (Common) Kestrel - RED-BILLED FRANCOLIN - Ruppell's Korhaan - KITTLITZ'S PLOVER - THREE-BANDED PLOVER - BLACKSMITH PLOVER - CURLEW SANDPIPER - AVOCET - GREY-HEADED GULL - Rock Pigeon - Laughing Dove - Rosy-faced Lovebird - Rock Martin - Cape Rook - Pied Crow - Red-eyed Bulbul - Mountain Chat - TRACTRAC CHAT - Anteater Chat - Chat Flycatcher - Cape Wagtail - Pale-winged Starling - Dusky Sunbird - Sociable Weaver - HOUSE SPARROW - Great Sparrow - Cape Sparrow - MELBA FINCH & Yellow Canary.
Others in the party saw: Greater Kestrel - Namaqua Sandgrouse - Feral Pigeon & BLACK-CHESTED PRINIA.
Mammals seen today: South African Ground Squirrel - NAMAQUA GERBIL - DESERT WARTHOG & Springbok.
• Day 4 (8th August)
JACKASS PENGUIN - GREAT CRESTED GREBE - BLACK-NECKED GREBE - DABCHICK - SOUTHERN GIANT PETREL - WHITE-CHINNED PETREL - SOOTY SHEARWATER - WILSON'S STORM-PETREL - White Pelican - CAPE GANNET - WHITE-BREASTED CORMORANT - Cape Cormorant - DARTER - GREY HERON - PURPLE HERON - Little Egret - Greater Flamingo - LESSER FLAMINGO - EGYPTIAN GOOSE - Cape Teal - HOTTENTOT TEAL - CAPE SHOVELER - MACCOA DUCK - SWAMPHEN* - MOORHEN - RED-KNOBBED COOT - EURASIAN OYSTERCACHER* - AFRICAN BLACK OYSTERCATCHER - WHITE-FRONTED PLOVER - Kittlitz's Plover - Three-banded Plover - GREY PLOVER - Blacksmith Plover - TURNSTONE - COMMON SANDPIPER - MARSH SANDPIPER - Curlew Sandpiper - WHIMBREL - Avocet - BLACK-WINGED STILT - ARCTIC SKUA - POMARINE SKUA - SOUTH ATLANTIC SKUA* - KELP GULL - Grey-headed Gull - HARTLAUB'S GULL - CRESTED TERN* - COMMON TERN - Laughing Dove - BROWN-THROATED MARTIN - AFRICAN MARSH WARBLER - Cape Wagtail - Dusky Sunbird - CAPE WHITE-eye - House Sparrow & MASKED WEAVER.
Others in the party saw: BANK CORMORANT - SOUTHERN POCHARD - WOOD SANDPIPER - GREENSHANK - CAPIAN TERN - SANDWICH TERN - WHITE-WINGED BLACK TERN - Namaqua Sandgrouse - Cape Turtle Dove - WHITE-BACKED MOUSEBIRD & GREY-BACKED CISTICOLA.
Mammals seen today: Black-backed Jackal - SOUTHERN GIRAFFE - GREATER KUDU - CAPE FUR SEAL - BOTTLENOSE DOLPHIN & [HEAVISIDE'S] BENGUELA DOLPHIN.
• Day 5 (9th August)
Ostrich - White Pelican - White-breasted Cormorant - Cape Cormorant - CROWNED CORMORANT - Greater Flamingo - Lesser Flamingo - Egyptian Goose - Cape Teal - Short-toed Eagle - Pale Chanting Goshawk - Ruppell's Korhaan - African Black Oystercatcher - White-fronted Plover - CHESTNUT-BANDED PLOVER - Kittlitz's Plover - Three-banded Plover - Blacksmith Plover - Avocet - Black-winged Stilt - Kelp Gull - Hartlaub's Gull - Crested Tern* - Sandwich Tern - Cape Turtle Dove - Laughing Dove - NAMAQUA DOVE - COCKATIEL - GREY LOURIE (GO-AWAY BIRD) - PALM SWIFT - MONTIERO'S HORNBILL - EUROPEAN SWALLOW - SOUTH AFRICAN CLIFF SWALLOW - Rock Martin - Fork-tailed Drongo - Red-eyed Bulbul - Mountain Chat - Tractrac Chat - Anteater Chat - Cape Wagtail - GRASSVELD PIPIT - WHITE-TAILED SHRIKE - Burchell's Glossy Starling - Pale-winged Starling - Dusky Sunbird - Cape White-eye - House Sparrow - Masked Weaver & Yellow Canary.
Others in the party saw: Great Crested Grebe - Black-necked Grebe - Black-shouldered Kite - Rock (Common) Kestrel - Red-billed Francolin - RED-CRESTED KORHAAN - Grey Plover - Turnstone - Grey-headed Gull - PEARL-SPOTTED OWL - RED-FACED MOUSEBIRD - SCIMITAR-BILLED WOODHOOPOE - Acacia Pied Barbet - SABOTA LARK - Long-billed Lark - Brown-throated Martin - Cape Rook - SHORT-TOED ROCK THRUSH - Titbabbler - LONG-BILLED CROMBEC - YELLOW-BELLIED EREMOMELA - MARICO FLYCATCHER - PRIRIT BATIS - Cape Glossy Starling - SCARLET-CHESTED SUNBIRD - WHITE-BROWED SPARROW-WEAVER - Sociable Weaver - RED-HEADED FINCH - Black-throated Canary - WHITE-THROATED CANARY - ROCK BUNTING & LARK-LIKE BUNTING.
No mammals were recorded today!
• Day 6 (10th August)
HARTLAUB'S FRANCOLIN - RÜPPELL'S PARROT - Palm Swift - PURPLE ROLLER - GOLDEN-TAILED WOODPECKER - CARDINAL WOODPECKER - Fork-tailed Drongo - Red-eyed Bulbul - Short-toed Rock Thrush - KALAHARI ROBIN - Yellow-bellied Eremomela - GREY-BACKED BLEATING WARBLER - ROCKRUNNER - Marico Flycatcher - White-browed Sparrow-weaver.
Others in the party saw : Familiar Chat.
Mammals seen today: CHACMA BABOON - SOUTHERN SCRUB HARE - South African Ground Squirrel - YELLOW MONGOOSE - Cape Rock Hyrax - Desert Warthog - Greater Kudu - STEINBUCK [STEENBOK] - [DAMARA] KIRK'S DIK-DIK.
• Day 7 (11th August)
Ostrich - WHITE-BACKED VULTURE - Lappet-faced Vulture - TAWNY EAGLE - BATELEUR - Red-necked Falcon - Greater Kestrel - Helmeted Guineafowl - KORI BUSTARD - Red-crested Korhaan - White-quilled Korhaan - CROWNED PLOVER - Blacksmith Plover - DOUBLE-BANDED COURSER - Namaqua Sandgrouse - DOUBLE-BANDED SANDGROUSE - Cape Turtle Dove - Laughing Dove - Grey Lourie (Go-away bird) - Pearl-spotted Owl - Palm Swift - Lilac-breasted Roller - Grey Hornbill - Red-billed Hornbill - Yellow-billed Hornbill - Montiero's Hornbill - Sabota Lark - SPIKE-HEELED LARK - RED-CAPPED LARK - CHESTNUT-BACKED FINCHLARK - Grey-backed Finchlark - Fork-tailed Drongo - Cape Rook - Red-eyed Bulbul - Kalahari Robin - Marico Flycatcher - Chat Flycatcher - Fiscal Shrike - Crimson-breasted Shrike - Cape Glossy Starling - Sociable Weaver - Great Sparrow - Cape Sparrow - Scaly-feathered Finch & Masked Weaver.
Others in the party saw: Cape Teal - MARTIAL EAGLE - Rock (Common) Kestrel - Namaqua Dove - Rüppell's Parrot - Scimitar-billed Woodhoopoe - Acacia Pied Barbet - Cardinal Woodpecker - Pied Crow - Familiar Chat - Anteater Chat - Titbabbler - Yellow-bellied Eremomela - Grey-backed Bleating Warbler - Grassveld Pipit & White-browed Sparrow-weaver.
Mammals seen today: Southern Scrub Hare - South African Ground Squirrel - Black-backed Jackal - BAT-EARED FOX - Yellow Mongoose - SPOTTED HYAENA - AFRICAN ELEPHANT - [BLACK] BROWSE RHINOCEROS - Southern Giraffe - Greater Kudu - Steinbuck [Steenbok] - Springbok - BRINDLED GNU [WILDEBEEST] - Gemsbok & an unidentified species of TREE RAT.
• Day 8 (12th August)
Ostrich - Dabchick - CATTLE EGRET - MARIBOU STORK - Egyptian Goose - CAPE SHELDUCK* - Cape Teal - RED-BILLED TEAL - SECRETARYBIRD - White-backed Vulture - Lappet-faced Vulture - Tawny Eagle - Bateleur - LITTLE BANDED GOSHAWK - Pale Chanting Goshawk - Rock (Common) Kestrel - Greater Kestrel - Red-billed Francolin - Helmeted Guineafowl - Moorhen - Kori Bustard - Red-crested Korhaan - White-quilled Korhaan - Three-banded Plover - Crowned Plover - Blacksmith Plover - Wood Sandpiper - Curlew Sandpiper - RUFF - Namaqua Sandgrouse - Cape Turtle Dove - Laughing Dove - Grey Lourie (Go-away bird) - AFRICAN SCOPS OWL - WHITE-FACED OWL - Pearl-spotted Owl - Palm Swift - Lilac-breasted Roller - Yellow-billed Hornbill - Sabota Lark - Red-capped Lark - Rock Martin - Fork-tailed Drongo - Cape Rook - Pied Crow - BARE-CHEEKED BABBLER - Red-eyed Bulbul - GROUND-SCRAPER THRUSH - Short-toed Rock Thrush - Kalahari Robin - Titbabbler - Yellow-bellied Eremomela - DESERT CISTICOLA - Black-chested Prinia - Marico Flycatcher - Chat Flycatcher - Pririt Batis - Fiscal Shrike - Crimson-breasted Shrike - THREE-STREAKED TCHAGRA - WHITE HELMETSHRIKE - WHITE-CROWNED SHRIKE - Cape Glossy Starling - RED-BILLED BUFFALO WEAVER - White-browed Sparrow-weaver - Great Sparrow - Cape Sparrow - GREY-HEADED SPARROW - Scaly-feathered Finch - Masked Weaver - RED-BILLED QUELEA - BLUE WAXBILL - Red-headed Finch & Black-throated Canary.
Others in the party saw: Black-shouldered Kite - CRESTED FRANCOLIN - Double-banded Courser - Namaqua Dove - Grey Hornbill - Red-billed Hornbill - Spike-heeled Lark - Grey-backed Bleating Warbler - BUFFY PIPIT - Sociable Weaver & LESSER MASKED WEAVER.
Mammals seen today: South African Ground Squirrel - Black-backed Jackal - Yellow Mongoose - Spotted Hyaena - WILD CAT - [AFRICAN] LION - African Elephant - [BURCHELL'S] COMMON ZEBRA - [Black] Browse Rhinoceros - Southern Giraffe - Greater Kudu - Steinbuck [Steenbok] - [Damara] Kirk's Dik-dik - Springbok - [BLACK-FACED] IMPALA - BONTEBOK - KHAMA [RED HARTEBEEST] - Brindled Gnu [Wildebeest] & Gemsbok.
• Day 9 (13th August)
Red-billed Francolin - GREEN-BACKED HERON - White-backed Vulture - BOOTED EAGLE - AFRICAN HAWK-EAGLE - Martial Eagle - Pale Chanting Goshawk - SWAINSON'S FRANCOLIN - Helmeted Guineafowl - Crowned Plover - Blacksmith Plover - Cape Turtle Dove - Laughing Dove - EMERALD-SPOTTED DOVE - GREEN PIGEON - Grey Lourie (Go-away bird) - LITTLE SWIFT - Palm Swift - White-backed Mousebird - Lilac-breasted Roller - Purple Roller - Grey Hornbill - Red-billed Hornbill - Yellow-billed Hornbill - YELLOW-FRONTED TINKER BARBET - FAWN-COLOURED LARK - RED-BREASTED SWALLOW - Rock Martin - Fork-tailed Drongo - Red-eyed Bulbul - Ground-scraper Thrush - Short-toed Rock Thrush - WHITE-BROWED ROBIN - Titbabbler - Black-chested Prinia - Marico Flycatcher - Crimson-breasted Shrike - PUFFBACK - White-crowned Shrike - Cape Glossy Starling - Scarlet-chested Sunbird - House Sparrow - Grey-headed Sparrow - Masked Weaver & Melba Finch.
Mammals seen today: Chacma Baboon - Southern Scrub Hare - South African Ground Squirrel - SMITH'S BUSH SQUIRREL - SOUTH AFRICAN PORCUPINE - Yellow Mongoose - LEOPARD - CHEETAH - Desert Warthog - Greater Kudu & Steinbuck [Steenbok].
Others in the party saw: RATEL [HONEY BADGER].
• Day 10 (14th August)
White-backed Vulture - Pale Chanting Goshawk - Cape Turtle Dove - Laughing Dove - Grey Lourie (Go-away bird) - White-backed Mousebird - Scimitar-billed Woodhoopoe - Yellow-billed Hornbill - Acacia Pied Barbet - Rock Martin - Fork-tailed Drongo - ASHY TIT - Red-eyed Bulbul - Ground-scraper Thrush - Short-toed Rock Thrush - Kalahari Robin - Yellow-bellied Eremomela - Marico Flycatcher - Crimson-breasted Shrike - Cape Glossy Starling - Scarlet-chested Sunbird - White-browed Sparrow-weaver - Grey-headed Sparrow - Masked Weaver - VIOLET-EARED WAXBILL & Yellow Canary.
Mammals seen today: Southern Scrub Hare - South African Ground Squirrel - Smith's Bush Squirrel - South African Porcupine - Yellow Mongoose - [African] Lion - Cheetah - Desert Warthog - Greater Kudu - Steinbuck [Steenbok] & Gemsbok.
• Day 11 (15th August)
White-backed Vulture - Tawny Eagle - Bateleur - Rock (Common) Kestrel - Helmeted Guineafowl - Cape Turtle Dove - Grey Lourie (Go-away bird) - ALPINE SWIFT - Lilac-breasted Roller - Purple Roller - Scimitar-billed Woodhoopoe - Yellow-billed Hornbill - Rock Martin - Fork-tailed Drongo - Cape Rook - Red-eyed Bulbul - Short-toed Rock Thrush - Marico Flycatcher - Cape Wagtail - Crimson-breasted Shrike - White-crowned Shrike - Burchell's Glossy Starling - Cape Glossy Starling - House Sparrow - Grey-headed Sparrow & Masked Weaver.
Others in the party saw: WATTLED STARLING.
No mammals were listed for today.
Version edited for blog on Monday, January 30, 2006
posted by Ardenna at 12:00 PM
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